I’m not heightist when I judge mountains. I’m attracted to beautiful peaks so my favourite isn’t 8848m but one that isn’t quite 7000m, the handsome pyramidal peak with a knife-edged double summit that is said to resemble the upturned tail of a fish. That’s what Machhapuchhare means, fish-tail. And sitting, as it does, inside the horseshoe of the Annapurna range makes it even more notable.
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| Machhapuchare or the Fish-tail has been my favourite mountain for years |
Much as I love the mountain though, it felt like I should take a closer look at Everest before I leave Nepal after what has added up to a total of about 10 years.
It took us the best part of three days to reach Manang – north of the Annapurnas – in October (click
Black Mud) so we booked a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla which was supposed to arrive in about 25 minutes. This would mean us aiming for one of the most dangerous airports in the world.
We were told to check in 90 minutes ahead of the scheduled take-off time at 6.15am but when we arrived at the domestic terminal at 5.30 the doors were locked. The airport didn’t open until nearly six, then Security was also late starting. Even so our little Czech-made 18-seater aircraft took off only about 10 minutes late.
All the other passengers were Indian tourists, and the landing was smooth and uneventful.
Lukla was apparently a small tight community of around 500 people who embrace Buddhism but our host at the Hikers Inn complained that with tourism, incomers have arrived who contribute nothing to the local community. He said 20,000 people live in and around Lukla these days, which was hard to believe.
We were aware of the risks of mountain sickness so skulked around Lukla (at 2840m) then next day took a ‘Khumbu microbus’ to Namche at 3440m, and walked onward towards Khyangjuma (at 3780m). The altitude sapped my energy levels quite a bit but that didn’t impinge on my enjoyment of the awesome terrane and soon when the stately Ama Dablam came into view I was doubting which was my favourite mountain. Like Machhapuchhare it isn’t a giant – it is 6812m high – but what a fine peak it is!
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| I was enchanted by these trailing lichens catching the updrafts |
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| Nepal is a country divided by rivers, but bridges allow access to schools, healthcare and trade opportunities to relieve monotomous diets and sell produce including nak cheese (nak being a female yak). |
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| A chilled yak against a Himalayan backdrop |
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| Ama Dablam, another stately mountain coming into view but is it the finest? |
The next part of a blog about this trip is here
Pull Up!